Introduction: Wanting to Know the “Now” of a City Oasis
Hello! I’m Ken, the editor-in-chief of Tokyo Insider Guide.
“Just 20 minutes by train from Shibuya. A powerful spiritual spot and the only natural valley in Tokyo’s 23 wards”… I had long been curious about a place called “Todoroki Valley (Todoroki Keikoku).”
I had also heard that a large portion of it is currently closed for restoration work due to typhoon damage. That’s precisely why, with curiosity about “what it looks like now,” I decided to walk it myself the other day. This is a report on that real experience.
First, to Todoroki Fudoson Temple Above the Valley
A few minutes’ walk from Todoroki Station, I first headed to “Todoroki Fudoson,” a temple perched on high ground overlooking the valley. It’s known as a power spot that has drawn worshippers since ancient times.
The temple grounds were surprisingly quiet, filled with a pure air that makes you forget you’re in the middle of the city. I started by quietly putting my hands together in prayer at the main hall to calm my mind.
Then, as proof of my visit, I received a Goshuin (a temple seal). Holding the seal, written in powerful calligraphy, I felt as if my spirit was cleansed and my energy renewed. This is the true joy of collecting Goshuin.
Into the Valley. And Facing Reality.
After my prayers, I descended the stairs leading into the valley. As I went down, the sounds of the city faded, replaced by the cool scent of earth and greenery. It felt unbelievable that I was in the city just moments before.
Unfortunately, however, a large portion of the walking path was still closed. I was looking forward to a long stroll listening to the babbling of the river, so to be honest, I was a little disappointed.
Still, Was It Worth Visiting?
So, did it end in disappointment? The answer is “NO.”
Even though it’s closed off, I could still fully appreciate a glimpse of its beauty just near the entrance of the valley and in the area right below the Fudoson temple. The deep green canopy overhead, the moss-covered rocks, and the pleasant sound of the river…
And there was a happy discovery. The sweet shop on the path, “Setsugekka,” was open. Having tea while listening to the river’s murmur should be refreshing enough, even if the walking distance is short. There is no doubt that this is a special space that makes you marvel, “Is this really the middle of Tokyo?” even if you can only walk a few dozen meters.
You can’t take a long walk, but I felt it was well worth visiting just to escape the city’s hustle for even 15 minutes and take a deep, quiet breath.
Ken’s Final Advice
If you are looking for a “long hike,” now is not the time to visit Todoroki Valley. However, if you’re thinking, “I just want to connect with nature for a little while and reset my mind in the middle of the city,” then it’s a different story.
A short trip to experience three things as a set: praying at Todoroki Fudoson, forest bathing at the valley entrance, and taking a break at “Setsugekka.” As such, I think it’s a worthwhile place that can still be fully enjoyed today. I sincerely hope for the swift restoration of the entire section, and I will definitely revisit when that day comes.
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